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Artillery Sidewinder x1 3D Printer, Multi-function 3D Printer the latest 4th Version Artillery 3D Printer with Aluminum Extrusion Frame & AC Build Plate 3D Printer (300 x 300 x 400 mm)

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

I had the opportunity 2 years ago to test this machine in Beta version before its release, since then this machine has undergone some improvements, it is now available in Version 4, Gearbest having contacted me to test this version, so this is the opportunity to see the improvements and test this new Artillery X1 V4 ! In case you didn’t assemble a 3D printer before, we advise you to re-check every step twice as you assemble your machine according to the user manual.

Users simply remove a few screws to uncover the entire bottom portion of the base, revealing all the Sidewinder X1’s electronics. What’s unique about the X1 are these flat flexible cables that are used on the Z-axis and on the X-axis. The Sidewinder X1 is equipped with a volcano-style hotend that allowed us to print objects both quickly and with very large layer heights. Many 3D printers equipped with direct drive extruders are forced to print slowly due to the additional mass of the extruder. If we look at the electronics, it’s an 8-bit MKS GEN L mainboard, coupled with a 32-bit controller for the touchscreen.If there was anything to gripe about I would say that the Z axis belt at the top was (is) pretty loose, and while this is supposed to keep the left and right steppers bound together, it definitely isn’t doing a ton. It should be noted that the bed heater in the Sidewinder X1 has 4 large dead zones around the level knobs. Power Failure Protection - Continue printing from the position where the last print was stopped during the power failure, and you can stop the continuous operation or power off. The power supply is passive, but considering that it only powers the printer hardware and hotend, it’s more than enough.

Even if the new auto-leveling function is certainly practical, the direct extruder, which is more suitable for flexible materials, and the large installation space remain the most important arguments for the Sidewinder X2.So far I’ve got a cludged together insulation-board and acrylic enclosure, with dedicated heat, but I’m working on adding a DC, resistive heater and blower for enclosure temp, and as soon as I can manage to get by some place that sells PC or Acrylic sheet that’s not on stupid holiday hours, I’ll do a nicer enclosure as well. PrinterMods is a proud cog in that machine - supplying the maker community with what they need to grow and thrive. It’s a pity that the ultrabase tray is glued, it will be difficult to replace it, I think it will be better to use another tray on top to avoid damaging it, it’s much more practical to have a removable tray to remove the prints more easily. If you encounter issues with removing prints, try to heat up the hotbed to around 70-80C for a minute. I know this because after around 50 hours of printing, the flexible cable from my printer started to smoke, and thermal runaway protection stopped my printer.

We found relatively minor issues such as the frustrating spool holder design and recommended it over the CR-10S Pro despite it lacking automatic bed level. While this doesn’t cause any particular difficulties and doesn’t make the whole printing process harder or worse, the solution itself seems somewhat outdated. It prints at a maximum speed of 150 mm/s, which, paired with wide material compatibility, makes this machine a good choice for personal and semi-professional applications. To get a baseline measurement of its performance, we compared it against its competitors like the Creality CR-10 V3, Mingda Rock D3 and Sovol SV03. The 2060 aluminum extrusion is extremely strong and rigid, making the Sidewinder X1 one of the sturdiest 3D printers we’ve ever tested.if I wrote this review as soon as I got it I would have given it 5 stars but what I know now it gets 2. Not because the bed is hard to level (quite the contrary, the bed is rock solid) but because i am used to auto leveling and it makes my life a lot easier. The only “downside” of the heat bed is that some prints stick too well to it and can become hard to detach. Take a look at some of the models 3D printed with the Artillery Sidewinder X1 to see what it's capable of.

The print came out really great, probably one of the better benchy’s I’ve seen, along with the detail and the rest of the print being great as well. One where our 2D thoughts are turned into 3D realities and where you have full control of your creative experiments, with a little help from an online expert community that loves to share what we do. However, Artillery has hot glued the connectors to the control board, requiring users to melt the glue before removing cables. This was also advantageous for my personal circumstance, as I’m moving to my off-grid cabin full time soon, which has a dedicated, 24VDC circuit, large powerwall, etc, just dedicated to the printers.A big problem is the bed is nowhere near flat and no amount of levelling can raise the centre without causing the perimeter to be too high and foul the home position. I think the nail in the electrical coffin is the lack of CE, which should be obvious considering the flaws – this printer and its power supply do have the “China export” logo, but not the “CE” logo that would certify that this machine is built to European safety standards and is legal to import into and sell inside the European Union. The Titan style direct drive extruder insures proper feeding of the hot-end nozzle for accurate layering of the 3D object being printed. I had decided to upgrade from an older Wanhao 4S and my choice was made after a thorough review of what was available on the market right now. I could keep on going here, like the touchscreen is alright, but it’s one of the worst translated and hastily-thrown-together interfaces on a printer these days, and even though the print quality and functionality as a 3D printer is fine, as soon as you look under the hood, it becomes a rather scary machine to use.

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